Heading into the mountains of Kamiyama on a fine autumn day, the torquoise water in the valleys below shimmers and sparkles through breaks in the forest. The colours, the light, the energy are irresistable. In my eagerness to descend to the cool, clear stream I decide to jump to the terrace below. The mossy grass landing is soft but slippery – I can’t help but laugh as my feet go from under me and I fall, splat, into the shallow, muddy canal running the length of the terrace.
After emerging from the forest I change out of my impromptu swimwear into hiking apparel. I drive on, up the steep, winding road to Shosan-ji (焼山寺), temple 12 of the Shikoku ‘Henro’ 88-temple pilgrimmage. From the carpark I take an old trail above the current path to the temple, passing a Buddha (statue) so old moss blankets his lap and a snake sleeping so soundly I have to step over it to continue.
On the left of the temple there is a lodge where pilgrims can take rest for the night. Beyond this and the temple residence a sign indicates a path leading to the Oku-no-in (奥の院), the inner sanctuary of the temple, that stands at the summit of the temple’s mountain, 1km away.
Along the steep trail various (labelled) trees stand among the predominantly cedar forest. About half way up the mountain a bench near a large rock outcrop is ideal for a lunchbreak. A pilgrim on his way back down the mountain greets me. Soon after an animal crashes through the undergrowth a little way uphill, most likely a serow (kamoshika in Japanese).
On a clear day from the summit (938m high) there is an impressive panaroma of mountains extending to the horizon. Now though dark clouds are looming overhead and the valley below is shrouded in mist. Back at the 650m mark of the trail, a fork leads to the ‘Dragon King’s Cave’ (竜王堀), 1km from here. After a steep descent the trail levels out on a ridge. Sticks tap together accompanied by the steady hum of pilgrims reciting sutras at the temple below. At the cave there is a statue of the fierce deity, Fudo-Myou, brandisihing a sword to assist us sentient beings to cut through our ignorance. A rather affable looking dragon stands by his side.
The path past the cave leads to a road connecting with the main road back up to the temple. No need to take the road though when on foot, a path offering more direct access. Back at the temple carpark a female pilgrim from France arrives. Her companion, a tall Italian, struggles up the hill a little later. The steep climb has taken its toll on him and he gladly accepts a ride back down the mountain to his lodging for the night. Seems the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimmage is gettting quite a name for itself these days!